St. Louis: Beyond the Arch

St. Louis, after decades of population loss and general malaise, is battling to redefine itself, particularly downtown, where loft conversion and a major residential-business development next to the new Busch Stadium has civic leaders spreading the gospel of hope. For now, it remains a city of intriguing pockets (the stadium area, Soulard, The Hill, Central West End, the Loop) and lingering uncertainty -- but for visitors, right today, there’s plenty to see and do and enjoy.

Location: Eastern Missouri, about 300 miles southwest of downtown Chicago.

Recommended for: anyone, especially baseball fans when the Cardinals are in town.

When to go: Baseball season is best (even with the steamy summer weather), but a walk in the park (Forest Park, for the zoo, museums and greenery) is always a pleasant option.

EIGHT REASONS TO GO:

1. Cardinals baseball

No other city -- Cincinnati comes close -- is so totally energized by home baseball games as this one. Plus, the new ballpark’s a beaut. stlouis.cardinals.mlb.com

2. Gateway Arch and the museum

That first sighting from the highway of the Arch never fails to thrill, and it’s even more wonderful from close up. The accompanying museum, focusing on Lewis & Clark’s journey and subsequent Western expansion, is special. gatewayarch.com

3. St. Louis Zoo

Best in the Midwest, maybe the best in the country. Innovative, accessible, complete -- and free. In marvelous Forest Park. stlzoo.org

4. City Museum

Don’t be turned off by the name: It’s not a dry collection of artifacts; nor is it another cookie-cutter children’s “interactive” museum. If you have kids, or merely appreciate creative whimsy, or both, this is a don’t-miss. citymuseum.org

5. The Hill

It’s a routine residential neighborhood -- except for the Italian restaurants, which make it a destination. shopthehill.com

6. Ted Drewes Frozen Custard

A true icon (and also a Route 66 remnant). One visit and you’ll understand why locals love the place. teddrewes.com

7. SOULARD FARMERS MARKET

A historic landmark (and just what the name implies), it’s also an introduction to one of inner St. Louis’ most vibrant neighborhoods. www.soulardmarket.com

8. The Mississippi River

It’s right there. You can take a boat ride if you like -- or simply sit yourself somewhere and watch it keep rolling along.