Past is ever-present

GETTING THERE:

From LAX, British Airways, Delta, US Airways, Lufthansa and Air France have connecting service (changes of planes) to Tirana. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $1,507 until Oct. 31.

TELEPHONES:

To call numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (international dialing code); 355 (country code for Albania); and the number.

WHERE TO STAY:

In Tirana:

Sheraton Tirana Hotel & Towers, Sheshi Italia; 42-74707, vwww.sheraton.com. This modern, concrete and glass multi-complex hotel offers the works. Doubles from $263, with breakfast.

Tirana International, Sheshi Skenderbej; 42-34185. One of the few hotels with handicap access. Doubles from $156 with breakfast.

vwww.adriatikhotel.comIn Saranda:

Hotel Butrinti, Rruga Butrinti; 852-5592, www.butrintihotel.com. One of the best hotels in Albania. Has a roof garden, pool and parking. Doubles $122 with breakfast and dinner.

Grand Hotel, Rruga Butrinti; 852-5574, www.grandhotel.com. A comfortable seaside hotel with swimming pool, restaurant. Doubles $61.

WHERE TO EAT:

Piazza, Rruga Ded Gjo Luli; vwww.kompaniabardha.com. Continental cuisine for lunch and supper, plus light Albanian specialties, desserts and beverages on the garden patio. Entrees $12-$18.

Casa di Pasta, 122, at Taiwan Shpk, Rruga Deshmoret e 4 Shkurtiti, Parku Rinia. The Italian-Albanian grill overlooking a park has great pasta and grilled lamb and veal. Entrees $8-$17.

In Saranda:

Castle of Lekurs, a mile from Saranda. Built by Ottoman Sultan Suleymani in the 16th century. The lower floors have a restaurant serving Albanian specialties. Entrees $8-$15.

Mediterrane Hotel Restorant, Rruga Butrinti. Dine on seafood and Albanian specialties. Entrees $6-$12.

TO LEARN MORE:

National Tourism Organization of the Albanian Ministry of Tourism, Culture, Youth and Sports, vwww.albaniantourism.com.

-- Rose Dosti