Wet ‘N’ Wild with Rockin’ Fig:

Happy Thanksgiving, everyone. Hope you’re in good health and all’s well with you. Maybe a surf in the morning could be fun, and some turkey with the family in the afternoon would be nice on this special occasion!

Over in Hawaii, the surf finally picked up, 6 to 10-foot-plus for the Reef Hawaiian Pro at Haleiwa. Hot 26-year-old local Joel Centeio pulled into a good-size barreling right and received a 9.33 score to take the win and the $20,000 first-place prize. Centeio also takes the lead in the Triple Crown of Surfing series’ overall points race, which some consider as good as a world title. East Coaster C.J. Hobgood was throwing some radical backside moves to place second, while third was Aussie surfer Jay Thompson, who solidified a position on the elite tour next year with his placing, and fourth was Tahitian surfer Alain Riou. C.J.’s brother Damien lost in the semis along with Aussies Kai Otton, Dion Atkinson and Hawaiian Hank “The G-Man” Gaskell. It was a bit of an upset for Joel Parkinson, No. 2 in the world, who lost out in the quarterfinals. Locals Brett Simpson and Timmy Reyes both went down in Round 64 in some stacked-up heats.

Next up is more North Shore action with the O’Neill World Cup of Surfing at Sunset Beach on Oahu. It’s a showcase of the power zone — big peaks out the back, rights that line up and possibly close out. Waves are usually anywhere from 8 to 25 feet-plus for the contest, to go along with board caddies, broken boards, personal watercraft and lifeguards ready to act in life-or-death situations.

For the gals, at the Hawaiian Pro, the surf was more in the 2- to 3-foot zone and peaky with rights and lefts at Haleiwa. Kauai’s 19-year-old surfer, ripper and model Alana Blanchard scored her first major victory in an Assn. of Surfing Professionals event. Blanchard and world champ Stephanie Gilmore were battling it out on the lefts with some slashing moves, but Gilmore lost by a close one-point margin. Peruvian Sofia Mulanovich was ripping the rights but ended up third, and fourth was Australian Rebecca Woods. Hawaiian up-and-coming hotties Coco Ho and Carissa Moore lost in the semis. Next up is the Gidget Pro at Sunset.

Just in time for the holidays, Rob Machado’s new flick, “The Drifter,” is coming out. It’s a Taylor Steele film about Machado chasing exotic dreams and waves in Indonesia and Bali. The adventure follows Machado hanging with the natives, living in tents in the wild, visiting remote villages, cruising on his classic motorcycle, and of course scoring some epic barrels.

It’s time to have some turkey. Over and out.

RICK FIGNETTI is a 10-time West Coast champion and a longtime KROQ-FM surfologist. He owns a surf shop on Main Street. You can reach him at (714) 536-1058.