Peninsula’s hidden Thai-food gem

GREER WYLDER

Just when you thought Balboa was nothing but chocolate-covered frozen

bananas, you discover Opaso Balboa Thai Cafe.

And no wonder it has remained such a secret. This cafe is a hard

find, and parking is a hassle.

Yet, the cuisine is a worthy treasure, and the small funky

ambience is a delight. Fabric billows from the ceiling; stenciled

mirrored orchids adorn the walls; and don’t forget to offer a pat to

the requisite miniature elephants.

Still, the most inviting feature is the exceptional hospitality.

Co-owner and chef T.J. Inthapanti treats customers like family. He

loves every minute of feeding and friendship.

His wife, Pat Inthapanti, has the gracious gift of remembering

guests’ names. T.J.’s sister, Pinjana Inthapanti, assists with the

business end, and her son lends a hand on weekends.

Yes, this is a family-run restaurant at its best.

“I love to cook and eat,” T.J. Inthapanti said. “And I can spend

every day with my wife. We commute and work together.”

T.J. Inthapanti started working at Opaso Balboa Thai Cafe as a

busboy when he was 21.

“I’m very fortunate,” T.J. Inthapanti said. “The timing was

great.”

Gradually his duties expanded, and now he runs the entire

restaurant. In 1994 after its founder, Opaso, passed away, T.J.

Inthapanti bought the restaurant from Opaso’s nephew.

At Opaso, customers don’t mind waiting for T.J. Inthapanti to

prepare and cook every dish from scratch.

A favorite is the excellent crispy duck, Opaso’s signature dish

($14.95), which takes days to prepare.

Young duck is marinated overnight and then slow baked for five

hours. After the bones and skin are removed, the duck is then

refrigerated. Finally, it is roasted the next day and served to

customers.

T.J. Inthapanti prepares his Pad Thai with a blend of cellophane

noodles (made from the starch of mung beans). They’re tossed with

shrimp and ground chicken, along with bean cake, peanuts and bean

sprouts ($8.95).

Curry dishes tend to be on the spicy side, as they should be. The

choices include green jungle shrimp curry with coconut milk,

broccoli, bamboo shoots, zucchini and sweet basil ($10.95); chicken

curry with spicy green curry, Thai herbs, bamboo shoots in coconut

cream ($8.95); and beef curry with bamboo shoots, coconut cream, Thai

spices and red curry ($8.95).

Dessert options are limited. When in season, T.J. Inthapanti

prepares mango with sweet, sticky rice for an after-dinner treat.

“My mom wasn’t big on desserts either,” he said.

Opaso Balboa Thai Cafe serves dinner only from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.,

but it offers catering for events and boat cruises.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

[email protected]; at 1375 Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa, CA 92626;

or by fax at (714) 966-4679.