Sebastiani’s is tastefully done

John Volo

Over the last several months, many friends and acquaintances have

suggested I check out Sebastiani’s Italian Bistro. It wasn’t,

however, until I sampled their marvelous spinach and ricotta ravioli

at the Taste of Huntington Beach that I was spurred into action. So

on the last night of my in-laws’ torturously long (just kidding) stay

with us, we ventured to Sebastiani’s.

Tucked away in a strip mall (hint: look for the red awning) near

the corner of Springdale and Warner, Sebastiani’s is a tastefully

appointed Italian bistro. There’s a white trellis ceiling with

hanging grapes, a large replica of Michelangelo’s “Creation of Man”

painting (altered to show Adam holding a wine glass) along one wall,

and precisely decorated glass-covered tables.

Although Sebastiani’s has a varied and reasonably priced wine

list, we decided to pass on the vino. Check that -- my mother-in-law

had a glass of white zinfandel, but I don’t consider white zinfandel

a wine any more than I consider the Clippers a playoff contender.

My father-in-law and I both enjoyed Moretti beers with the warm

bread that’s accompanied by a parsley pesto for spreading and a spicy

tomato sauce perfect for dipping.

We decided on mozzarella caprese as an appetizer. Sliced Roma

tomatoes are layered with sweet basil leaves and fresh mozzarella,

and drizzled with lemon vinaigrette. Every caprese salad I’ve ever

had has been drizzled in olive oil, and nothing but olive oil.

Although some traditionalists might think it blasphemous to use lemon

vinaigrette, I found it invigorating. The subtle lemon dressing,

coupled with the extremely juicy tomatoes, made this a standout.

Had I been with a more adventurous dining group, I would have

liked to try the Carpaccio di Manzo. For this appetizer, razor-thin

slices of cured raw beef are sprinkled with Parmesan cheese and

finished with extra virgin olive oil. Maybe next time.

Sebastiani’s creative menu posed a problem for my father-in-law.

He lives by the following credos when eating Italian: the only

filling allowed for ravioli is cheese; the only kind of sauce is

tomato; and the only meat offered should be in the shape of a ball.

Imagine his surprise when he saw the raviolis were filled with the

likes of mushrooms and spinach and veal. Or that they offered dishes

with white wine sauces, lemon sauces, brown sauces, and even a garlic

cream sauce. He actually broke out in a cold sweat when he didn’t see

meatballs listed on the menu.

Fortunately the chef was kind enough to make him a plate of penne

and meatballs with marinara sauce, which he devoured.

My wife’s pollo piccata was delicious. An extremely tender chicken

breast was sauteed in a creamy sauce of lemon, butter and capers, and

served with a trio of vegetables (roasted potatoes, carrots, and

zucchini).

Sebastiani’s offers several other chicken dishes (parmigiana and

Marsala), as well as a veal piccata. All veal dishes are pounded to

order to ensure tenderness.

My mother-in-law and I each ordered one of the chef’s dinner

specials. I went with the Fileto Garibaldi -- an eight-ounce beef

tenderloin stuffed with Gorgonzola cheese and prosciutto, finished

with a sage demiglace. This entree was rich, very rich. Her thin,

coaster-sized homemade lobster raviolis were covered with an Aurora

sauce (more orange than blush) delicate enough to let the seafood

flavor shine through.

Lamb cannelloni, herb-crusted ahi and chicken cacciatore were also

specials. All specials come with soup or salad. We opted for Caesar

salads, but we could have gotten their seafood (salmon, calamari and

shrimp) and rice soup.

When it came time for dessert, I was unable to build a consensus

for the mango creme brulee (I felt like a defeated politician).

Instead, we savored a small chocolate souffle whose decadence belied

its size and a soothing spumoni that mixed in cherry bits and

pistachios. They also offer two traditional Italian desserts --

tiramisu and gelato.

While we enjoyed a great dinner at Sebastiani’s, they also serve

pizza, pasta, and salads for lunch.

* JOHN VOLO is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have

comments or suggestions, e-mail [email protected].