Prime location for a primo burrito

Greer Wylder

Judging by the long lines at lunch and the steady stream of customers

coming in the rest of the day, tiny Los Primos Cantina is one of

Costa Mesa’s favorite Mexican takeout restaurants.

When it first opened in 1992 in a congested strip mall on the

corner of Irvine Avenue and 17th Street, hungry Newport Harbor High

students were some of its first customers, and they’ve made it their

regular hangout since. A picture of Los Primos Cantina, drawn by a

Newport Harbor student, hangs proudly on the wall.

Chef Francisco Guerrero is full of similar sentimentalities. He

framed the first dollar Los Primos made, along with currency from all

over world that customers bring in. He displays snapshots of loyal

customers in a large collage.

He also has reminders of Guadalajara, his hometown -- a soccer

team poster; Our Lady of Guadalupe icons and religious candles; and

maps of Mexico.

Los Primos also gives back to the community by donating food to

Newport Harbor High’s athletic teams, St. Andrew’s Church and the

Mariners Park Fourth of July event that raises funds for Mariners

Elementary School.

In other words, Los Primos is a neighborhood restaurant in the

best sense of the term. It would never be mistaken for a restaurant

chain. It offers home-style cooking and grants special requests. At

Christmas, Guerrero makes special tamales for his favorite customers.

He’ll also adjust a dish’s spiciness for every customer.

Los Primos begins serving breakfast burritos at 9 a.m. with

freshly scrambled eggs, refried or black beans, Monterey Jack and

Cheddar cheeses and fresh salsa ($2.89); and a gringo burrito with

fries, bacon and eggs ($4.79). For lunch and dinner, Los Primos

serves enormous burritos ($2.89 to $6.99) and combination plates with

tacos, tamales, enchiladas and rice and beans ($3.49 to $6.89). Other

popular dishes include tostadas, nachos and quesadillas. They all

come with complimentary chips, salsas and chili peppers.

The burritos outsell all other dishes and Los Primos offers eight

varieties. A fantastic two-pound-plus burrito called Mr. Serious

comes double-wrapped and packed with carne asada, carnitas or pollo.

Then it’s filled with refried beans, rice, jack, cheddar, lettuce,

pico de gallo, sour cream, guacamole and salsa ($6.99).

For vegetarians, there’s a Dr. Carlos burrito that includes black

beans, rice, cheddar, lettuce, tomato, onions, sour cream, guacamole

and salsa ($5.59). Other selections include a chorizo burrito

($3.49); and a burrito especial with your choice of carne asada,

carnitas or pollo; rice, beans, jack and cheddar cheese and salsa

($4.49). There’s also a selection of fresh tacos, quesadillas,

tostadas, nachos, salads and side dishes.

The tiny takeout restaurant, adorned with year-round festive foil

garland, has room for only three white plastic tables and chairs,

along with a handful of bar stools. Yet roomy interiors and upscale

dining are not what Los Primos is about.

It’s made its mark on the community by serving generous portions

of fresh Mexican foods at value prices, seven days a week.

Los Primos also offers private party services, and its large

portions, available to go, make entertaining easy.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

[email protected]; at 1375 Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa, CA 92626;

or by fax at (714) 966-4679.