Zinc at Night is a dining delight

Glori Fickling

Still something of a serendipity as a dinner retreat, Zinc Cafe is

that long popular breakfast and lunch respite launched on Ocean

Avenue in 1988 by enterprising John Secretan.

His concept was so inviting, the delightful little sidewalk

attraction and its innovative menu garnered as much attention from

out of towners as it did locals that it came as little surprise when

the place was cloned not long ago in nearby Corona del Mar following

a 1994 version built in not so near Solana Beach.

The dinner menu was introduced just over a year ago for Thursday,

Friday, Saturday night enjoyment and was expanded last summer to

include Tuesdays and Wednesday evenings. Commensurate with this, the

wine list was expanded and the dinner menu revised.

“Zinc at Night” becomes especially romantic these days when

darkness prevails at an early 6 p.m. That is when myriad candles and

miniature white tree lights Illuminate the cozy patio, beckoning to

intimate alfresco dining under a multi-parasol tent. Settle at a

table clad with huge white napkins and be greeted by charming

managers Lisa, Zuri or one of their servers. As your order is taken,

you will be treated to an appetizer of crunchy toasted almonds, mild

mozzarella bites, zesty kalamata and green olives floating on an

unctuous pool of olive oil.

Peruse the menu and note that so remarkable is the variety of

selections, you may not even notice there is no mention of poultry or

meat in sight. Nor will you miss these particular proteins because it

is amazing how many and varied are the preparations of assorted

vegetables and grains.

Consider for openers curried cauliflower, gingered carrots, brown

buttered green beans among a few interesting ingredients. An octave

of beginnings priced at $7.95 and $12.95 starts with artichokes

dressed with pesto aioli and herbed goat cheese. Rice paper spring

rolls stuffed with assorted jullienned vegetables seasoned with

cilantro, basil, mint, chives come with spicy soy and honey mustard

dips. Black bean chili is topped with tomatoes, green onion, sour

cream and a side of garlic knots. The soup du jour is so popular, a

voicemail selection is quoted when you call the restaurant. At $3.95

a cup, $5.95 a bowl, you will hear such healthful choices as lentil,

pozole, lima bean, spinach/potato.

Salads include a hearty dinner combination adorned with avocado,

beets, fennel and warm goat cheese in a fig balsamic/olive oil

dressing, $10.95; half an order, $6.95. Herbed butter lettuce dressed

with a lemon/shallot blend and crostini is $6.95 and cucumber dill

crescents posed atop butter lettuce with avocado in a lemon/olive oil

blend, $4.95, ordered as a side with entrees this is $3. An

exceptional choice among half dozen open-face sandwiches combines

braised asparagus with cauliflower puree, cheddar cheese, buttered

breadcrumbs and a poached egg, $10.95. The mushroom nut loaf in

marinara sauce has toasted almonds, curried cauliflower and gingered

carrots, $12.95.

A south-of-the-border entree is a spicy potato enchiladas composed

of flour tortillas stuffed with sauteed potato, tomato and spices

blanketed with traditional enchilada sauce, a side guacamole and sour

cream. Eggplant parmesan is a taste of Italy layering breaded slices

with ricotta cheese in marinara sauce, as is spinach lasagna in a

light bechamel sauce with toasted breadcrumbs. For some real comfort

food, go for the four cheese macaroni rich with white cheddar,

fontina, goat and parmesan. These are each $12.95. Whoever said

vegetarian dishes are boring.

The luscious array of desserts displayed on a tray are totally

irresistible, not least the fresh berry tart regally crowned with

whipped cream. At least 17 red, white, sparkling and dessert wines

are listed, most available by glass starting at a nominal $4.

NEWS BITES

Extensive South Seas remodeling at Shoreline Restaurant in the

Holiday Inn is rolling slowly along under ownership of Dave Kerrigan

who acquired the place earlier this year. Though business is slow in

the interim, it’s no problem for 30-year Laguna Beach resident Robert

Wells who stopped me recently to say the room feels like his own

private retreat, citing chef Kathy Walsh’s affordably priced fresh

fish specials posted outside. Dinners average about $16.95 including

soup or salad, grilled vegetables and potatoes or rice. Phone: (949)

494-2102

Watch for interesting new happenings at Laguna Village, the

charming oceanfront mecca of art and dining directly south of Hotel

Laguna. Since Village Bistro restaurant was vacated a few weeks ago

by original owner Karl Ziegler, word is that Village owner, Dorothy

Olsen, hopes to have things going in time for the Thanksgiving

holiday. Stay tuned.

Note from constant reader Bruce Hopping requesting more coverage

of “economy class restaurants.” Beyond this current feature, since

launching this column 2 1/2 years ago, I have reviewed many

affordable and still thriving favorites: Pomodoro, Laguna Thai by the

Sea, Anat Falafel, Goko Cafe, Taco Loco, The Stand, Laguna Culinary

Arts Cafe, La Sirena, Coffee Pub and more. We are certainly blessed

with an astounding variety of dining establishments in many price

ranges and I welcome suggestions from readers to share personal

favorites. Please e-mail [email protected].

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].