French 75 a fascinating dining destination

Glori Fickling

A forerunner on the gourmet cuisine scene since launching on March

17, 1998, there is no question that Laguna’s enticing French 75

Champagne Bar and Bistro reigns supreme as one of Orange County’s

most sophisticated dining destinations.

The flagship venue of restaurateur David Wilhelm’s Culinary

Adventures, the establishment features an elegantly tented garden

entry with sparkling crystal chandeliers illuminating tables

appointed with crisp white linens and gleaming place settings. The

two story interior offers private seating in a variety of rooms and

alcoves, each an invitation to gracious dining.

Framed photos of vintage Hollywood stars adorn walls in the cozy

Left Bank room and up the stairs awaits seating surrounded with a

worldwide vintage wines. For celebrity clientele, special parties and

romantics requesting ultimate privacy, an intimately curtained alcove

awaits replete with a secret outdoor staircase.

Recently sharing the evening with a first-time guest recalled

happy memories of the grand opening when the Michael Angelo style

ceiling painted above the capacious bar was unveiled. The whimsical

mural titled “The Champagne War Between the Monkeys and the Cherubs”

was conceived by local artist Russ Butler whose models were local

children.

The whimsy continues as a magical fascination to regulars as well

as newcomers. Beyond all these attractions, however, it is the

superlative menu and gracious service that keeps enchanting an

appreciative entourage. The enticing bill of fare is virtually

unchanged, according to general manager Nadine Hotong, up to and

including the daily quote of rustic dishes inspired by classic French

soul food.

The somewhat trendy entree of veal cheeks, recently introduced by

corporate chef Ryan Adams, was certain to provoke the interest of any

foodie worth her salt. And his tantalizing offering did not

disappoint. Consisting of plump mounds of tender medallions, the

meat had a sensual, somewhat gelatinous texture, very pleasing to

tongue and palate. The dish was appetizingly presented in a large

stainless steel casserole and accompanied with comforting white

polenta wafted with parmesan cheese in an artistic arrangement of

crisp green beans, all floating on a yummy puddle of dunkably

flavorful gravy.

Seafood favorites include steamed black mussels seasoned with

garlic, white wine and creme fraiche, thyme roasted sea bass, salmon

a la Basque with saffron risotto and halibut meuniere. The latter,

perched atop a savory mound of spinach, is a tender portion of white

fish seasoned with olive butter, then adorned with tiny Parisian

potatoes and sprinkling of briny capers.

Noteworthy among the dozen meat and poultry entrees are grilled

rack of lamb, steak au poivre, grilled pork tenderloin and herb

roasted chicken breast. Nightly preparations of three-way duck

promise variations of grilled breast, confit and seared foie gras.

Dinners, commencing with a basket of assorted breads and tiny tub of

olive tapenade, range from $18 to $36.

There are 10 tantalizing hor d’oeuvres at $9 to $18, none so

exquisite as chef’s seared Hudson Valley foie gras. The luscious

rectangles topped with crisp greens are delicious and literally melt

on the tongue like satiny pats of butter. Butter lettuce salad, in

contrast, comprises a lovely lettuce rosette centered with a ball of

Roquefort mingled with toasted almonds and dashed with dijon-tarragon

vinaigrette. Wandering from the usual escargots appetizer, this

presentation is flecked with bits of black forest ham, revette gris

and garlic butter. Little white ceramic tureens cradle creamy lobster

bisque spiked with chive creme fraiche, and similarly ladled French

onion soup gratinee is livened with tangy gruyere cheese.

Desserts are equally tantalizing starting with the requisite hot

chocolate souffle which must be ordered before dinner. Light and

luscious for a mere $8, are berry cobbler haloed with a scoop of ice

cream and a crisp apple tart similarly crowned. Top these off with

Diedrich coffee and Courvoisier, share all with a partner and stay on

for the lively entertainment of great Broadway show tunes top 40 hits

and danceable tunes which fill the main dining room and bar.

News Bites

Happiness for Laguna Beach foodies is the news that half a dozen

top-of-the-line chefs from local restaurants will be showcasing their

considerable talents at the annual Great Chef’s of Orange County gala

reception on Sunday.

Promising a range of culinary delights from their respective menus

are executive chefs Philip Kaufman of restaurant hush, Jeff Platt

from Tabu, Marc Cohen from 230 Forest Avenue, David Mack who reigns

in the kitchen at Hotel Laguna’s Claes, Matt Leonard and John Cuevas

who hold forth in The Loft at Montage Resort and Spa.

Starting at 11:30 a.m. the event is featured for the first time

this year at the Balboa Bay Club and Resort. “Sizzling Food and Cool

Jazz” benefits the National Kidney Foundation of Southern California.

For toll free information and tickets, please call (818) 783-8153.

Halloween Happenings!

Officially the date is Oct. 31, but most restaurants will also

celebrate the Saturday prior. Laguna Beach Brewing Company will be

offering music for dancing starting at 8 p.m. along with drink

specials and prizes for most original costumes. On Sunday commencing

at 6 p.m. the establishment’s popular Nocturnes are throwing a ‘60s

Monster Bash complete with dynamic special effects from their

Disneyland days. Information: (949) 494-2739.

The big Spook Day celebration at Hennessey’s Tavern on Saturday

will be replete with costume prizes, dancing to live Reggae

commencing at an early 3 p.m. with 80s favorites by King Pleasure

continuing at 9 p.m. On Sunday, kick up your heels to Super Plexi

starting at 9 p.m. and continue into the night with the danceable

rhythms of the Flirt band. (494-2743). Stay tuned for more Halloween

hullabaloos next week.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].