Dining Review

Stephen Santacroce

People are always asking me what my favorite restaurants are in the

area. Invariably, when I list my top four or five, my list includes both

of Tim and Liza Goodell’s gems, Aubergine and Troquet. More often than

not, the response is a blank stare, or a “I’ve heard of that, where is

it?”

It seems that two of the area’s best restaurants are also two of its

best-kept secrets. Certainly, Troquet, despite its location in bustling

South Coast Plaza, requires a certain explorer’s tenacity to find. But

like a hidden tomb full of gold and jewels, it is worth the journey.

In Aubergine and Troquet, the Goodell’s have established two superb

eateries, each with its own style. Aubergine, the romantic and charming

hideaway nestled among the boatyards on Balboa Peninsula, boasts

fixed-price menus and is the perfect spot for a birthday or special

anniversary. The menu is eclectic French; it’s here where Tim gets to

flex his creative culinary muscles.

Troquet more resembles a bustling Paris bistro, and the cuisine is

appropriately more basic: no-nonsense French prepared with understated

finesse.

The best way to enter Troquet is from the footbridge on the fifth

floor of the large parking structure next to Nordstrom.The setting inside

is bright and bustling. A long, double-sided couch covered in rich

brocade runs the length of the one-room establishment, with a row of

tables on each side. An additional row of tables bordered by a brass

railing parallels both the couches and a long exhibition kitchen. Warm,

ochre-painted walls and knotty hardwood floors add warmth to the

functional setting.

The difference in food style between the two restaurants is apparent

even before the first glimpse of the menu. Both restaurants start the

meal with an amuse bouche, a tiny complimentary appetizer. At Aubergine,

it’s obvious that Goodell is going to show off all of his culinary

tricks, and it’s not uncommon to start with a truffled egg custard served

in quail egg shell, or some other exotic treat.

At Troquet on a recent evening, we were served nothing so fancy -- a

simple plate of spice-coated almonds and oil-cured black olives in herbs

began the night. Fancy, no, but a perfect accompaniment to a cocktail or

glass of cold champagne.

A French bistro is usually a small family-run establishment, a place

to get a home-cooked meal for those with no one to cook at home or who

want the night off. The cook is usually the owner, or a close relation,

and the preparations rely less on fancy technique than on fresh

ingredients and good basic cooking skills. Troquet follows this model,

and while the prices may be steep compared with a typical bistro, the

kitchen focuses on simple dishes prepared with a refined, skilled touch.

First courses include several salads, including a warm chanterelle

salad ($11) that pairs the woody mushrooms with tiny asparagus tips and

artichoke hearts in a pleasing, light starter.

Steak tartar ($14), a rarity on today’s menus, is served with the

traditional garnishes of capers, onion and lemon juice, piled next to a

bed of arugula and some dabs of olive tapenade. The raw beef mixture has

a surprisingly light and subtle flavor compared with its cooked

counterparts, which is enhanced by the peppery arugula. The tapenade is

unnecessary, however, and the strong flavors overpower the meat.

Another recent offering was a parsnip veloute ($9), a soup enriched

with butter and cream. The sweet flavor of the pureed parsnips was

delicately enhanced by the addition of a few drops of truffle oil, and a

dollop of duck confit completed the dish with a flair.

One of the telltale differences between bistro fare and haute cuisine

are the sauces. Bistro chefs dispense for the most part with complex,

egg-and-cream-based creations, opting instead for simple reductions based

on stock with a little wine and herbs.

Filet mignon ($32), served simply with a side of steamed tiny green

beans, is enhanced by a reduction flavored with a handful of assorted

peppercorns. Order a side of pomme frites ($5.25) to go along with your

steak. These crispy fries are worthy of a gold medal, if not golden

arches.

Plump sea scallops ($30) are seared quickly and perched atop a bed of

sauteed wild mushrooms, garnished only with a touch of tomato puree and a

veal au jus. The scallops are the stars here, and the sauce adds the

necessary richness to the dish without upstaging it.

Another classic example of bistro cooking is the pork tenderloin

($26), served with a morsel of braised pork belly and pommery mustard.

The dish is accompanied by cabbage sauteed with flecks of salty pancetta,

creating a comforting combination perfect for the cooler nights ahead.

I recently tried the duck breast, which was crusted with coriander and

served with a leg of duck confit in a simple sauce flavored with lemon

and thyme. The coriander added both a nice crunch and pungent flavor to

the savory game.

Tim Goodell and Chef de Cuisine Jeff Armstrong have assembled a

respectable wine list featuring a well-mixed choice of French and

Californian bottles. Mark-ups are reasonable, especially for the

higher-priced selections.

The service at Troquet is attentive without being intrusive, and the

staff allow their guests to enjoy a leisurely dinner without feeling

rushed.

Tim Goodell began his career as a pastry chef, and the desserts show

off his baking skills. Who can resist a rich, flourless chocolate cake

($9) served with a prune and armagnac ice cream, or a spicy gingerbread

cake ($9) adorned with a small cloud of sweetened whipped cream? Diners

without a sweet tooth can opt instead for a plate of artisan cheeses

($11) served with a warm basket of toast slices, perfect with a nice

port.

Tim and Liza are expanding their restaurant empire in 2002, with

restaurants opening in Huntington Beach and Costa Mesa. Tim is also the

50% owner of the venerable Ritz Restaurant, which was recently sold by

ailing Newport Beach legend Hans Prager. Hopefully these additions will

provide some well-deserved recognition for the couple who have provided

area residents with two of the best restaurants in town.

Aubergine rivals the best in any city, drawing comparisons to the

famed French Laundry in Napa, and despite its awkward location, Troquet

is a true gem; a fine example of bistro cuisine at its simple best.

* STEPHEN SANTACROCE’S restaurant reviews appear every other Thursday.

Send him your comments at [email protected].

FYI

* WHAT: Troquet

* WHERE: 3333 Bristol, Suite 3001, Costa Mesa (on the 3rd floor of the

Nordstrom wing in South Coast Plaza)

* WHEN: Lunch is served 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Saturday.

Dinner is served 5:30 to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday. The restaurant

is closed Sunday

* HOW MUCH: Expensive

* CALL: (714) 708-6865