Wet ‘n’ Wild with Rockin’ Fig -- Rick Fignetti
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he Figster returns to the Independent with your weekly surf column,
only fit for Surf City, cause that’s what this place is all about, with
beach news of all kinds.
You’ll be getting results from your several-time national champs,
Huntington Beach High School, the local scene, such as the Huntington
Beach Surf Series, National Scholastic Surfing Assn. and the U.S. Surfing
Federation.
Plus the biggies, the U.S. Open, which will have surfers here from all
over the world, not to mention local hot shots. We’ll have Assn. of
Surfing Professionals action, the world qualifying series updates, world
championship tour info and other hot topics.
We’ll have biographies on interesting beach people, surf product
information and anything past or present that deserves worthy notice.
Surf tips of all sorts from surfboards to surf breaks to weather and
tides of any beach-oriented aspects that could and might affect your
lives, every Thursday right here, so stay tuned.
Meanwhile, summer is almost here -- just a couple weeks left for the
groms before they get out of school and no doubt the place to be will be
right here at our local beaches.
So there’s definitely fun to be had, and you’ve heard it before but
here’s a few safety tips that might help out.
Always swim and surf by a manned lifeguard tower. We have a top-notch
crew of experts on the beach’s watching out for ya, scanning the lineup
for possible problems and rescues. If you get hurt they’ll take care of
you or direct you to the proper care.
A good idea before entering the water is to stretch and loosen up
tight muscles so you don’t cramp up or strain them. While doing that,
survey the area for possible hazards, such as the Huntington Beach Pier,
jetties, rocks or other objects that could be of concern.
Check which way the current is going -- north or south -- to see if
you could be pulled into one of the above. The size of the surf is a
major factor. What are your limits? How big can you handle? Is there a
channel to paddle out in that will save some energy?
The sets will usually break a few at a time then there’s a lull,
paddle out then.
Surfing is getting pretty popular and it gets pretty crowded out
there. If you’re a beginner, you want to stay away from the pack. It’s
easier to navigate with less people in the way, and that’s usually down
the beach.
The Pier is the high profile spot for most of the surfers that ride
for the shops, and that’s usually where the big ripping is going on. It’s
also where the Huntington Beach surf team meets in the mornings -- on the
south side. Most of the top Huntington Beach pros train there too -- Ryan
Simmons, Jeff Deffenbaugh, the Jay “Larsenator” Larson, Timmy Reyes, Tim
and Ryan Turner, Danny Nichols and Tom Rezvan -- just to name a few. Take
a look off the Pier and you’ll see them in action when they are not on
the circuit.
Riptides usually come when the swell starts to show and goes the way
the surf is pushing. Sometimes the riptides push you down the beach, and
sometimes they suck you out to sea.
The consensus is to swim or paddle parallel to the beach with the
current so you don’t lose energy. Try to stay calm and don’t panic
because that will tire you out sooner. The lifeguards really monitor this
situation pretty well and are always watching from Tower Zero with the
big binoculars for possible rescues. If you continue down the beach you
should move out of the riptide area.
That brings up the buddy system.
Going with a friend is a great idea, whether it’s surfing,
bodyboarding or swimming. There’s always a possibility of getting hurt
and your friend might be the one to save you or alert the right people.
Plus who’s gonna see that great ride or believe that story of that
10-second tube ride or air drop lip bash that you pulled. I know my
friends don’t unless it’s caught on film.
There has been a lot of shifting sand, making holes, shallow spots and
deep spots, so it’s not advisable to be diving headfirst into the water,
maybe in a pool, but most the time in our ocean, it’s hard to see the
bottom and there have been a few neck injuries.
Hey, the water’s warming up fast and that sometimes brings in the
sting rays. Shuffle your feet as you head to the outside and that could
save you from getting the whiplash or whip gash on your feet.
Surf schools have been doing pretty well lately and there’s good ones
in town. Getting a few lessons from an instructor could save weeks of
time. The right equipment makes the difference.
Practical application of just getting out there will help the stamina
and balance. The more ya go the better shape you’ll be in. You’ll gain
more knowledge every time. No two waves are ever the same so its a little
different every time. So have fun, don’t forget the sun block, and I’ll
see ya out there.
* RICK FIGNETTI is a six-time West Coast champion, has announced the
U.S. Open of Surfing the last seven years and has been the KROQ-FM
surfologist for the last 15 years where he’s done morning surf reports.
He owns a surf shop on Main Street. You can reach him at (714) 536-1058.
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