KATHY MADER -- Dining

Every now and then, it is really fun to go and visit some of your old

haunts. My husband and I were cruising around the Newport Pier, a place

that we don’t get to very often anymore and right there, at the base of

the pier, in the center of all things beachy, is Charlie’s Chili.

We hadn’t eaten there since it was located on Newport Boulevard about

100 years ago. As we stood there and debated as to whether it would be a

good idea, a server delivered a pile of crunchy onion rings to an outdoor

table. Our decision was made. We were going in.

Charlie’s Chili has been around in various locations since 1967 and

was originated because “no one served the ideal bowl of chili.” Well,

someone does now. Someone also serves the ideal chili-cheese omelets and

jumbo chili dog, but I am getting ahead of myself.

My pals and I always used to frequent this establishment back in

college and right after -- when money was tight, but the hunger was still

there.

Things have changed at Charlie’s only a little. In-line skaters, baby

strollers and stealth fighter sea gulls now accompany the casual college

crowd, who are there for the great-tasting, inexpensive food.

Tiffany-style stained glass lamps, ceiling fans, green vinyl

diner-style booths, and green and white gingham curtains remind you of a

small-town diner, but the outdoor tables with the pigeons and the

eclectic wall coverings with signs and pictures from old Newport to rock

band advertisements is all Newport.

They also have two televisions, so the true sports fan doesn’t have to

miss a beat.

Now that Charlie’s is in the heart of Newport Beach tourism, it is

even more interesting. You can watch the crowds go by, the folks from

Wisconsin burn, tandem bikes and crazy razor riders whir past, and the

people feeding the pigeons -- consider this a warning.

Charlie’s plays rock ‘n’ roll, the kind you have actually heard

before, and delivers some serious chow -- so serious it is the kind of

food that brings you out on Sunday morning in search of that

one-of-a-kind chili-cheese omelet, or corn bread and chili with onion

rings and a Bloody Mary if you wish.

If you are a bit older, Tums are also mandatory, but that is neither

here nor there.

We asked our waiter what his favorites were, and, funny, there was no

generational disagreement. He said the omelet and the chili dog. Sean

also suggested that we get some ranch dressing for our onion rings. True

simpatico.

The chili-cheese omelet ($6.45), with its big and mild Ortega chilies,

piled high with jack and cheddar cheese and served with crispy home

fries, was terrific. From that point on, it did not matter to me how the

rest of the food was.

But! The chili dog ($5.25) was also terrific, smothered in chili and

the same cheese and served with fries.

Charlie’s is noisy and busy and culturally diverse. It seems everyone

loves a good bowl of chili. I keep talking about the chili, but I should

mention that they have a darn good clam chowder for those avoiding the

beans.

Speaking of beans, I should mention that one reason I personally like

the chili so much is that it is completely devoid of kidney beans, a

personal loathing. Charlie’s chili is 100% pinto beans, with great spices

and ground beef, and it goes well on everything they serve, including the

chili cheeseburger ($5.95).

But Charlie’s Chili is not limited to chili. The daily special while

we were there was beer-battered cod ($7.95) and a taco platter that

includes two beef tacos with rice, beans and a salad (5.95). The menu has

an entire seafood section that includes fish and chips, halibut, scallops

and various combinations thereof.

I mentioned the clam chowder, which is good but a bit too thick.

However, some people love it that way. It goes very well with an albacore

salad ($5.95) or the chicken Caesar ($5.95).

Charlie’s has quite a number of substantial sandwiches -- from patty

melts, BLTs and grilled ham and cheese ($5.45) to some serious burgers.

Of course I recommend the chili size ($6.45) or the chili cheeseburger

because, “when in Rome” -- well you understand.

The San Francisco burger on sourdough with grilled onions and Thousand

Island dressing will be my next order. Brian’s will be the French dip

($6.45). It looked great and is served with fries and a salad. And this

is just the lunch menu.

Breakfast includes a variety of omelets and a whopping breakfast

burrito among a long list of additional entrees.

All of these items are available on Charlie’s to-go menu, but I

suggest you go as soon as possible.

* KATHY MADER’s dining reviews appear every other Thursday.

FYI

WHERE: 1021 McFadden Place, at the base of the Newport Pier

HOURS: 7 a.m. to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday, 7 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Sunday through Thursday

COST: Inexpensive

CALL: (949) 675-7991