All’Acqua

All’Acqua has become a favorite in the neighborhood and is usually crowded, but the wait is never too long.  (Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)

Don Dickman’s version of porchetta has followed him from restaurant to restaurant.   (Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)

The crispy lamb’s tongue is garnished nicely with crunchy radish.  (Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)

Among the antipasta at the new All’Acqua is a bowl of meatballs with whipped ricotta and tomato sauce.  (Amy Scattergood / Los Angeles Times)

Pasta with short rib and porcini ragu and fresh mozzarella at All’Acqua.   (Amy Scattergood / Los Angeles Times)

Wood-grilled Spanish octopus with citrus and olives is among the starters at All’Acqua in Atwater.   (Amy Scattergood / Los Angeles Times)

Putting a pizza into the giant Naples-built oven at All’Acqua.   (Amy Scattergood / Los Angeles Times)

Among the many pizzas, a pie with fennel-pork sausage, red onions and fennel pollen at All’Acqua.  (Amy Scattergood / Los Angeles Times)

Behind the bar of All’Acqua in Atwater Village.  (Amy Scattergood / Los Angeles Times)

Bar manager Lucy Augusta Voigt makes a drink called house old-fashioneds.  (Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)

Steve Machado, left, and Tim Campbell have a drink before their meal.  (Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)

A dessert of lemon budino with rosemary shortbread cookie at All’Acqua.  (Amy Scattergood / Los Angeles Times)

The pear-brown butter crostata with vanilla bean gelato at All’Acqua.  (Amy Scattergood / Los Angeles Times)

Felicia Fasano, left, and Rosa Graziano share a toast at the convivial restaurant bar.  (Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)

Chef Don Dickman at All’Acqua in Awater Village.  (Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)