Embracing the darker side

First there was Dutch process cocoa powder, darker and more chocolately but smoother and less acidic than supermarket cocoa. Now there’s premium Dutch cocoa -- made by the preeminent French chocolate house, Valrhona.

Hot cocoa made with this stuff achieves love potion status: rich, dark, seductive. Nothing at all like what Mom used to make.

-- Susan LaTempa

Valrhona unsweetened cocoa powder,

1 pound container, $10.85, from Surfas in Culver City.