In the mood

Onion soup: classic charms

The onion soup at Pleasant Peasant, a charming French spot, is based on beef stock simmered for five hours, loaded with carrots and celery as well as onions fried golden. It’s topped with a toasted slice of baguette covered with Swiss cheese, and the bowl is put under the broiler until the cheese begins to bubble. (French onion soup, $4.95.)

Pleasant Peasant, 4251 Martingale Way, Newport Beach, (949) 955-2755

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Rich stock

While a rich chicken stock is cooking, Mimosa bakes sliced onions for over an hour, then they’re cooked together for an hour longer. It’s finished with a crouton heaped with a French version of Swiss cheese (Comte) and put under the broiler till the cheese runs over the sides. (French onion soup, $7.)

Mimosa, 8009 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 655-8895

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Hint of Cognac

At La Parisienne, a mixture of chicken and beef stocks are combined with Maui onions caramelized in oil and Cognac. White wine and a bay leaf are added and it’s simmered some more. Finally, it’s put covered with a large crouton and a mixture of mozzarella, Parmesan and Swiss cheeses and baked until the cheese blisters and bubbles. (French onion soup, $7.)

La Parisienne, 1101 E. Huntington Drive, Monrovia, (626) 357-3359

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Veal broth

Cafe Stella uses veal broth and dark caramelized onions. White wine and brandy are added and the soup cooks three or four hours longer. It comes under a plain crouton topped with a lot of Swiss Gruyere, set under the broiler to brown the cheese to a light amber. (French onion soup, $7.)

Cafe Stella, 3932 Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, (323) 666-0265

-- Jessica Strand