Dinner Tonight! : SECOND HELPINGS : Prelude to a Soup

Perfect tomatoes are hard to find. You know the ones--juicy with the right amount of acidity, red-ripe to the core, firmly textured, with a flavor that says slice and serve me alone and adorn me with nothing more than a sprinkling of salt.

I wish this taste experience happened with every tomato, but sometimes they need a little flavor help, and that’s when I oven-roast them. Pretty on the plate, they’re a perfect side dish for roasted meats and poultry.

They also keep a week or more refrigerated and are perfect for things like quick pasta sauces. To roast tomatoes, simply place 9 tomatoes, cut in half, cut side up on a large, rimmed baking sheet. Mince 3 cloves of garlic, mix with 1/4 cup olive oil (preferably extra-virgin), and drizzle over the tomatoes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and bake at 350 degrees for 30 minutes.

Just before serving, place under a preheated broiler until lightly browned. For serving 4, allow 2 halves per person, reserving 10 halves for this hearty tomato-bread soup.

Tomato Bread Soup With Parmesan

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 30 minutes * Vegetarian

10 halves oven-roasted tomatoes plus any reserved pan juices

1/4 cup olive oil

1 large garlic clove, minced

1 3/4 cups vegetable broth

4 cups water

1/4 cup prepared pesto

6 cups roughly torn pieces crusty bread

Salt, pepper

1 cup (1/4 pound) freshly grated Parmesan cheese

* Scoop pulp and juices from tomato skins into large bowl. Discard skins.

* Heat oil in large saucepan over medium heat. Add garlic and saute just until it begins to brown, 1 minute. Add tomatoes with juices, broth and water, cover and simmer 15 minutes.

* Stir in pesto, then add bread. Bring back to simmer and add salt and pepper to taste.

* Divide among 4 large soup plates or bowls and top each with 1/4 cup cheese.

4 servings. Each serving: 620 calories; 1,533 mg sodium; 26 mg cholesterol; 37 grams fat; 53 grams carbohydrates; 21 grams protein; 2.13 grams fiber.