Wine 2K : 1997 Joel Gott Zinfandel ‘Dillian Ranch,’ Amador County

Zinfandel style seems headed in the same direction as pop music--overproduced, exaggerated and unstable. Here’s one Zinfandel producer who is going against the trend for big and bigger. Joel Gott’s Dillian Ranch Zin, made from grapes grown in northern Amador County, is a gorgeous ruby red with a tightly knit texture and a light hand with the oak. Understated and subtle, the 1997 shows what an elegant wine Zinfandel can be in capable hands.

About $19. Available at fine wine shops.