Corn Chowder I: Mussels and Potatoes

As a last hurrah for summer, I like to make fresh corn chowder.

Instead of using whipping cream, make the chowder creamy with pureed potatoes; just a small amount of half and half is added for richness. Sometimes I garnish the soup with bacon, but for a change--and a lower-fat alternative--I like to add a few smoked mussels.

To remove the kernels from the corn cobs easily, break each ear of husked corn in half. Stand the half ear of corn in a shallow bowl and cut the kernels from the cob with a small, sharp knife. Save the cobs and simmer them along with the other vegetables and water to make a corn-flavored broth.

I usually serve the chowder with roasted tomato slices and often end the meal with an assortment of sliced melons splashed with chilled white wine and garnished with fresh mint leaves and lime wedges.

FRESH CORN CHOWDER WITH SMOKED MUSSELS

6 ears corn, husks and silks removed

2 medium leeks (white part only), trimmed, washed and chopped

2 cups water

1 pound potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 clove garlic, chopped

1 bay leaf

1 sprig fresh thyme plus 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves stripped from stem

Salt

2 1/2 cups milk or more as needed

1/2 cup half and half

6 ounces smoked mussels or 3 strips bacon, cooked until crisp, drained and chopped

Freshly ground pepper

Dash hot pepper sauce

1/2 cup seeded, chopped plum tomatoes

Break each corn cob in half and cut off kernels with small, sharp knife. Use dull side of knife and press along cob to extract as much corn juice as possible. Set corn and juices aside.

Combine corn cobs, leeks, water, potatoes, garlic, bay leaf, sprig of thyme and salt to taste in large saucepan. Heat to boiling. Reduce heat and cook, covered, over low heat until potatoes are very tender, about 30 minutes. Remove from heat. Lift out and discard corn cobs, bay leaf and thyme sprig.

Puree corn-leek liquid in food processor until smooth. Transfer back to saucepan. Stir in milk and half and half. Add reserved corn kernels and corn juices. Slowly heat, stirring, until well blended and steaming. Do not boil. Add mussels. Add additional half and half or milk as needed to thin chowder, if desired. Season to taste with salt, pepper and hot pepper sauce.

Stir together tomatoes and thyme leaves in cup. Ladle hot chowder into bowls and garnish with spoonful of tomato mixture. Makes 4 servings.

ROASTED TOMATO SLICES WITH BASIL CRUMBS

1 clove garlic, halved

3 large tomatoes, trimmed, cored and cut into 3/4-inch-thick slices

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

8 large basil leaves, torn into small pieces

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup coarse bread crumbs (made from day-old Italian bread)

1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano or dash dried

Rub shallow 2-quart glass baking dish with cut side of garlic. Reserve garlic for crumbs. Arrange tomato slices in single layer in baking dish. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper to taste and top with basil leaves. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons olive oil.

Crush 1/2 of reserved garlic. Toss with bread crumbs, oregano and remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Sprinkle over tomatoes, distributing evenly.

Bake at 375 degrees until crumbs are lightly browned, 20 to 25 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature. Makes 4 servings.