Wedding Menus Marry Simplicity to Catering : Trends: Experts find that brides want their guests to enjoy their meals rather than be impressed with the exotic.

Getting the menu down pat is among the trickiest parts of planning a wedding, because consideration must be given to time of day, season, the budget and the collective taste of the guests.

Any good wedding caterer will strive for simplicity in the menu to accommodate the widest range of tastes.

“This is not a good time to experiment with the lastest food fads,” said Mary Miccucci, of Along Came Mary Catering.

According to Rococo Catering party expert Cathee Hickok, caterers are shying away from eclectic menus meant to shock or impress.

“We try to keep things simple and tasty but not too eclectic. We went through the nouvelle California cuisine phase with its kiwi sauces and three carrots on the plate. It sounded good but it didn’t work. Now brides want their guests to enjoy the meal, not to be impressed. They want to have good food attractively presented,” said Hickok.

Health considerations have also entered the planning picture. “Menus are more health conscious than ever before. We (Rococo) try to keep salt and fat content down. But if we do use deep fried foods, we restrict the amount used and offset them with other healthful foods,” said Hickok.

Light-calorie foods such as salads using fish or chicken, poached salmon, sand dabs, which can be served boned and cooked to order on a table-top stove at a fish station, work well. So do vegetarian casseroles and vegetables served in chafing dishes. Couscous salad and orzo are now popular buffet items because they say healthful , according to Hickok .

Here are some tips from caterers to help in the planning.

MIDDAY WEDDING-- If the budget is major consideration, the best time of day to plan a reception is during the midday, after lunch and before dinner.

“People are not hungry at midday, so food costs go down,” said Hickok.

Cake and Champagne are the least expensive way to go if you are trying to cut costs.

Liquor used at midday can be confined to wine or Champagne, which are less costly than a full bar with hard liquor often used for evening weddings. Count on seven glasses per bottle Champagne, when calculating the amount of liquor to buy. Also make use of discount liquor houses, which often offer fine Champagne at cut prices. A caterer’s cost for beverages can double or triple the true cost of beverages, so you may consider subcontracting service duties to family and friends if cost is a factor. You will also save money doing the food preparation yourself, especially when dishes are not complex. Sandwiches are not difficult and can be prepared well in advance of the party.

“Even if the budget is not an issue, keep the menu light,” suggests Hickok. If you want to expand the menu, finger foods, such as blinis with caviar (American or imported), salmon tartar, poached salmon bites, Chinese lettuce wraps and sushi are light, yet satisfying for a midday snack.

EVENING WEDDING --Evening parties tend to be more expensive because guests expect to be fed fuller, heavier meals than during midday or even morning receptions. Guests also expect drinks to flow.

Pasta dishes, and casseroles, such as tamales, Chinese chow mein or chow suey, are less expensive than meats, fish or poultry.

HOT DAY WEDDING-- Hot day expected? Stay away from cheeses, heavy sauces and dishes made with mayonnaise, eggs, gelatin or other perishable foods.

A warm day is not a day to present a gooey cake that can slip or slide off its pedestal. That means staying away from whipped cream, Bavarian or gelatin-type chiffon cakes on hot days. Cakes with jam layers can be precarious too. Plan on heavy, firm wedding cakes for safety’s sake.

“One cake that is growing in popularity lately has been the flour-less chocolate cake,” said Hickok. The cake is a rather firm, thin cake served in sliver-thin wedges. We have used several of them arranged on a Lucite frame of tiers to appear as if they are floating layers,” said Hickok. Time the cake to arrive as late as possible. This can be coordinated with the baker or caterer. (A recipe for an almost-flourless cake follows).

STATION WEDDING-- Many brides are turning to station events to keep the party lively and less formal.

“Station events work well because they keep people moving around. It’s a great ice breaker,” said Hickok.

“The nice thing about station wedding food is that you can stick to miniature versions of entrees, which are not as expensive as buffet food. You have one central item that requires forks only, served with accompanying dishes, such as a salad. “Things like Greek moussaka served with a Greek salad and Greek breads work beautifully,” said Hickok.

California grilling stations work well when outdoor facilities are available. Bite-size brochettes of shrimp, swordfish, chicken, lamb or beef make excellent miniature entrees. Chafing dishes can be filled with vegetarian type dishes, such as ratatouille or stuffed mushrooms.

Stack a pile of small plates on both ends of the table. “Each station should have a full range of plates, utensils and napkins so people don’t have to hunt around the room for them,” Hickok suggested. Each table should be manned or supervised to keep things orderly and dishes replenished. A station chef’s activities add an air of festivity to the event, as well.

SIT-DOWN WEDDING-- Sit-down dinners are more costly, because of the service and possibly the table/chair rentals, and settings required. The menu, however, should be planned for color, texture and taste in mind. “Color and texture are important elements at sit-down dinners because plates should be beautiful to look at as well. French service, in which a waiter passes around food from a tray, is an efficient way to serve many people at once and avoid delays.

To bone up on planning, Bridal magazines often give listings of bridal shows and fairs, which help expedite the planning process.

Bridal shows will give you an idea of the wide variety of services from photographers, florists, caterers, bakeries, jewelers, bridal salons and other bridal services if you are planning a wedding at home or elsewhere.

Here are some menus for station, sit-down and midday cake and Champagne weddings.

GREEK STATION WEDDING (EVENING) Avgolemono Soup Moussaka Lamb kebabs Greek salad bar Cookie Doves (Kourabithes) Greek walnut wedding cake The drinkable soup and salad bars can be do-it-yourself with someone supervising. Moussaka can be served in squares. Miniature lamb kebabs (two bites on a stick) can be prepared by a station chef, (relative or friend who enjoys grilling). Station the Greek baklava and cookies with the Wedding cake.

AFTERNOON STATION WEDDING (SUMMER OR WINTER) Champagne Poached salmon bites or salmon tartar Blinis with American golden caviar Fruit mounted on ice Wedding cake The salmon bites and blinis can be served at the same bar unless hundreds of guests are expected. The fruit mounted on ice makes a nice companion center piece at the cake station.

Keep the Champagne bar manned and separate, near the door. Champagne also can be passed by waiters to avoid gridlock.

SIT-DOWN WEDDING (EVENING) Hot or cold squash soup Sand Dabs Rosemary Variety garden salad White cookie doves and French vanilla ice cream Chez Melange Almost-Flourless Chocolate Cake All the dishes, including the wedding cake can be served French-style on trays, passed at the table. Cookie doves are heavily dusted with powdered sugar. Flour-less chocolate cake can be made weeks ahead and frozen.

AVGOLEMONO SOUP

8 cups chicken broth

Salt

1 cup rice

4 eggs, separated

Juice of 1 lemon

Pepper

Thin lemon slices

Sprigs parsley

Bring chicken broth to boil. Add salt to taste. Reserve 4 cups broth. Add rice to remaining broth and simmer, covered 20 minutes.

Beat egg whites until stiff. Add egg yolks and beat well. Slowly add lemon juice and 4 cups reserved broth and continue to beat until well blended. Pour beaten mixture into rice broth. Stir well over low heat.

Serve in mugs garnished with lemon slices and parsley sprigs. Makes 6 servings.

Note: For quantity size, prepare in several double batches.

MOUSSAKA

3 medium eggplants

Salt

6 medium potatoes

3/4 cup oil, preferably olive

1/4 cup butter or margarine

1 1/2 cups chopped onion

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 pounds lean ground lamb or beef

Salt, pepper

1 tablespoon dried mint

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 cup tomato paste

Cream Sauce

Slice eggplant into 1/2-inch slices. Sprinkle generously with salt and let drain 20 minutes. Rinse off salt and dry eggplant with paper towels.

Heat oil in skillet and fry eggplant slices few at time, adding more oil if necessary, and browning eggplant on both sides. Drain on paper towels.

Peel and slice potatoes into 1/4-inch slices and fry in oil, adding more if necessary until golden. Drain oil and melt butter in skillet. Saute onion and garlic until transparent.

Add ground lamb and cook until browned. Add salt and pepper to taste, mint, parsley, cinnamon and tomato paste.

Arrange 1/2 eggplant in 13x9-inch baking dish, about 4 inches deep. Top with 1/2 potatoes and 1/2 meat. Repeat layering eggplant, potatoes and meat. Cover with Cream Sauce and bake at 375 degrees 30 minutes or until custard is set. If browned surface is desired, place pan under broiler, watching carefully to prevent scorching. Makes 6 servings.

Cream Sauce

1/2 cup butter or margarine

3/4 cup flour

1 quart warm milk

4 eggs, lightly beaten

1/2 teaspoon salt

Melt butter and stir in flour, blending until smooth. Gradually add warm milk and cook, stirring, until thickened. Stir small amount of sauce into eggs, then return to sauce in pan. Cook, stirring, until thick, being careful not to scorch. Add salt. Makes about 4 cups.

COOKIE DOVES (KOURABITHES)

1 pound butter, softened

Powdered sugar

2 egg yolks

1/8 teaspoon baking powder

2 teaspoons cognac

Juice of 1/2 orange

5 to 6 cups sifted cake flour

Whole cloves

Beat butter with electric mixer until light and fluffy. One at time, add 4 tablespoons powdered sugar, egg yolks, baking powder, cognac and orange juice, beating well after each addition. Continue beating 10 to 15 minutes.

Add flour gradually, continuing to beat well after each addition, until fairly stiff dough is formed. Knead few minutes to be sure that all flour has been absorbed.

Pinch off walnut-size pieces of dough and shape into doves, circles, stars or crescents, as desired. Insert clove in appropriate spot of cookie.

Place on ungreased baking sheet and bake at 350 degrees about 15 minutes or until light brown. Place warm cookies on sheet of wax paper coated heavily with powdered sugar. Makes 4 to 5 dozen.

HOT OR COLD SQUASH SOUP

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1/4 cup sliced green onions

1 1/2 pounds yellow squash, cut in cubes

2 tablespoons flour

1 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can clear chicken broth

1 cup half and half

Small tomato slices

Parsley sprigs

Melt butter in large saucepan. Add green onions and squash. Saute few minutes, stirring. Stir in flour. Add salt, pepper and chicken broth. Bring to boil, stirring constantly.

Simmer 10 to 15 minutes, or until squash is tender. Cool.

Puree in blender. Stir half and half into mixture. Chill or serve hot. Garnish with tomato slice and parsley sprig. Makes 4 to 5 servings.

CHEZ MELANGE ALMOST-FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE CAKE

2 pounds bittersweet chocolate, melted

1 1/4 cups unsalted butter, at room temperature

8 eggs, separated

Dash salt

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons flour

Whisk chocolate and butter until blended. Whip egg yolks until pale yellow in color, about 5 minutes. Beat egg whites with salt, then add sugar, beating 5 seconds.

Fold chocolate into yolks, then fold into egg whites. Sift flour over whites and fold in.

Butter bottom and sides of 10-inch baking pan. Pour chocolate mixture into pan. Bake at 425 degrees 15 minutes. Mixture will be soft. Cool completely before removing from pan. Makes 1 (10-inch) cake.

SAND DABS ROSEMARY

1 1/2 pounds sand dabs (about 2 1/2 pound with bone in)

Salt, pepper

Juice 1 lemon

2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary, thyme, marjoram or basil

1 cup white wine

Lemon wedges

Season fish to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Sprinkle with herbs. Place fillets, skin side down, in baking dish. Add wine. Cover tightly with foil.

Bake at 500 degrees 5 to 8 minutes or until wooden skewer easily pierces thickest part of fillet. Serve with lemon wedges. Makes 6 servings.