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Spring Shows in Paris End With That Come-Hither Look : Designers: Steamy ready-to-wear designs from Yves Saint Laurent feature flower power and sexy chic, while Emmanuel Ungaro offers a more understated view.

From Times Wire Services

Yves Saint Laurent gave the final show of this season’s ready-to-wear collections Wednesday, throwing caution to the wind. The king of chic brought out some of the sexiest clothes in all of Paris. When he took his bow, he was surrounded by models wearing a steamy assortment of slit-to-the-thigh skirts, bosom-revealing bodices and flirtatious, flower print dresses that left no doubt: sexy style is in at YSL.

The show opened with safari dresses and suits that featured lace-up miniskirts and bush jackets, worn with thigh-high satin boots and towering turbans. From there it veered toward dressier styles at once elegant and seductive.

The come-hither message was clear in Saint Laurent’s toga dress that completely bared one breast. Even trouser suits had surprisingly low-cut jackets that bared more of the bosom than the shoulders.

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A fitted, flower-print pique jacket with a sweetheart neckline topped wide, cropped pants for a snappy look. There was more flower power in the big, red poppies on the bodices and skirts of Saint Laurent’s shorts suits.

A group of dark-toned silk and linen suits with mother-of-pearl buttons on the sleeves had long, tulip-shaped jackets and asymmetric, wrap skirts that offered quite a leg show. Other leggy looks were the polka-dot flamenco dresses with flounced skirts, cut short in front but dipped longer in back.

For torso emphasis, Saint Laurent wrapped the waist in tight taffeta draping and put a shocking-pink leather bolero above it, and a lean, violet leather skirt below. He showed belted tunics over skirts for subtler effects.

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His new dinner suit is a black crepe and satin harem tuxedo, with bare midriff and a skirt cut to show every curve. Over it, he put an organza coat that floated like a cloud.

Like YSL, many Paris designers showed bare skin and body-contoured or cutout clothes for spring. In contrast, Emmanuel Ungaro’s new look is far more understated.

Not that there aren’t any curves by Ungaro for next season. But the designer has refined and streamlined some of his earlier, fraught-with-detail ideas and hourglass shapes.

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Even the flower-print bustiers worn with flirty, peplum suits have a lighter touch. Ungaro’s prints and patterns are softer than of late, and his signature sheaths don’t constrict the body this season.

Also softened are the powerful shoulder lines Ungaro built into past collections. He’s replaced them with lightly padded shapes.

But there’s still plenty of exuberance in the clothes--particularly the fitted peplum or bolero jackets with pink or yellow piping, worn with flower-print crepe skirts in shades of orange and blue.

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Ungaro still flings colors, plaids and florals together. But this season the combinations really work: the wildflower fitted jackets, some with vests, look great with their torso-wrap jersey blouses and lean plaid or checked skirts. Waistlines in his suits are always wasp-waist small, and there is plenty of skin showing at the neckline.

Ungaro’s easier, softer mood also produced a raft of shifts and smock-style tops with puffy sleeves, as well as safari suits with easy, cropped pants. They were made of beautifully cut linen and worn with firmly belted tunics in color combinations of prune, brown, violet and peach.

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